Speed Humps

Hello All,

This has been a week of many great and unprecedented moments. A number of these I’ve spent in the reading of kind and inspiring words from so many of you. I am truly honored to be embraced by such an extensive community of fantastically supportive friends and family. This past week you have showered me with extra love, and I’m realizing many of you have been anticipating Stig’s arrival with nearly as much excitement as I have felt. So without further ado, by far the most thrilling experience of this past week, and perhaps this entire trip, occurred at about 7: 50am on Saturday morning amidst spattering rain when I recognized my husband’s searching gaze. As his wandering expression gave way to a brilliant smile, my steps quickened to a series of rapid skips over puddles and across the street to hug and kiss and just look at him. Then, in truest form, I ran in the opposite direction toward the nearest bathroom, leaving Stig to make his own introductions with our cab driver and sort the plan for transporting his things. That morning’s coffee and water bottle could only serve to hydrate and keep me awake for so long before also catching up with my notoriously small bladder. Too much information? Perhaps. Anyway, and with great relief on all fronts, we reunited a second time and proceeded to the Lusaka bus station to go home to Kitwe.

The bus trip home to Kitwe was not quite so smooth as our blissful reunion. Literally. For nearly six hours we travelled at a consistent trot over potholes and across speed “humps” with impressive, if disconcerting, speed. Nonetheless it seemed a rather perfect introduction to the certain reckless abandon, which can characterize this country and culture. And, after a few stops (at every one of which I deftly made ablutions), we finally landed in the thick of Kitwe Central Bus Station, a hectic circus of vehicles, people and trash coated in a thick layer of dust and whirling in all directions. With some effort we managed a taxi, negotiated a fair price home (all of three dollars), loaded a series of plastic-wrapped bags into our driver’s “boot” and drove to Auntie Sue’s Guesthouse.

Stig says my bedroom seemed bigger in pictures. It also seems the photos didn’t quite do justice to a number of scuffed walls, cracked linoleum tiles and decrepit furnishings. Even so a fresh set of sheets, still wafting of nostalgically soapy scents from home, covered all manner of Zambian housekeeping. With enough unpacking to slip into more cool and comfortable denim and enough daylight to sustain a much-needed walk, Stig and I set off for dinner. This meal turned out to be the most splendid conclusion to our perfect day. We spent almost two hours in thorough conversation over exquisite butter-chicken, fresh veggies in chili oil and cashew cream gravy, marinated lentils and garlic Naan. Then we returned to my Kitwe “Castle” to bask in those soapy sheets. Too much information? Perhaps.

The story of Stig is, of course, the highlight of my week. Other happenings seem to fade, even as I now attempt reflection. However, a few more of those aforementioned “great and unprecedented” moments included the following:

·      Some really productive time spent with the new Copperbelt coordinator, whom, I recently learned, will be living with me here in Kitwe. This means I will have help and company through the duration of my last weeks in Zambia, a tremendous answer to prayer!

·      My first taste of sea salt, turbinado sugar and chocolate-covered almonds (on Zambian soil, that is).

·      My first Tagalong chocolate peanut-butter Girl-Scout cookie (also on Zambian soil).

·      The first and glorious dried apricot I’ve eaten in over two months.

·      My first Zambian kiss!

I’m signing off this week with a spirit of utter joy and contentment. Wishing you each all the same happiness.

With love,

Jess