Zambian Skies in Black & White

Hi,

Have I told you about Zambian skies? I was trying to describe them to a cab driver, but he couldn’t grasp the concept that skies in Zambia could be different from those in America. It’s the same moon; the same sun. So, different skies? I insisted, “Yes.” Here your heavenward gaze is met with an unparalleled clarity of royal blue, which fades into robin’s egg in ombré diffused by spun cotton clouds hovering at the horizon. Perhaps the skies are distinct because their function is a miraculous, if incongruent freedom from the dust and brokenness of the landscape. Nonetheless there is certain unexpected seamlessness between an unkempt, rural reality as it meets a ceiling of majestic grandeur. The skies in Livingstone did not fail us. Rather, they ushered us into the dreamlike state of our idyllic holiday. We arose each morning into thick beams of streaming sunlight, marveled at picturesque perfection over raging falls, romanced in the fuchsia twilight of streaked, shadowy sunsets and rested beneath a chitenge of starry indigo. This past week afforded the greatest blessing of calm. Livingstone offered truly pleasant touristy charm, with foreign-inspired eateries from the anti-Atkins delight of Olga’s Italian Corner to “Taco Tuesdays” at Fezbar, all the while maintaining balance in the characteristic Zambian flare of colorful curios and a contented community. We spent our days lounging on patterned pillows piled together and inset in the floor of the common area of our hostel. In the company of many happy hippy travelers, we slurped “funky monkey” smoothies (fresh banana, chocolate, peanut butter and coconut milk), shuttled to Victoria Falls and boarded a sunset cruise along the bush banks of the Zambezi River. One afternoon, while walking through the grounds of the affluent Royal Livingstone Hotel, we happened upon a family of giraffes, including one very pregnant mother, a “toddler” giraffe and their zebra entourage. Another path along the falls shared the resting place of a forlorn monkey who remained seated even as we approached, photographed and eventually passed him. He was clearly lost in deep thought. Needless to say, the time was extremely well spent. Together we swallowed three books in as many breaths, we watched six movies (one for every night of our trip), we emerged sopping and victorious from the trail of one of the world’s roaring wonders and we realized the gift our partnership, relishing the glories of each moment made all the better for their shared recognition.

Hopefully there is enough sap dripping from this account to last all of us through the next two weeks and three days. It was a harsh reality to re-enter Kitwe yesterday afternoon without my husband. It was as sad to fall asleep last night, unable to find a snug fit into my larger “spoon.” But clearly I am still reeling, and the recollection of this past week through these words to you has been an exquisite indulgence. As there has always been, surely there will be some yet discovered purpose for my final days here. We will all learn in time as these next days unfold and with them that plan.

Until next week and with love,

Jess